There is no doubting the pedigree of this wine. The first one was 1987 and this one is the current release. I’ve tried a few over the years and was going to say this is the ‘greatest’ but my judgement is influenced by just how good this one is in this moment.
I could be going out on a limb here by saying this was not classic Coonawarra Cabernet when I tasted it. It doesn’t seem to have that mintyness, that herbal/leafy note to it that we’ve come to expect and love in wines from this region. Natalie Cleghorn has produced a wine that is so, so approachable already yet has the structure to impress just as much in a decade at least.
It’s young so the colour was no surprise. Deep, dense, glossy crimson red and purple. What was a surprise was the aroma. Definitely some charming dark fruits but there was a hint of cherry blossom/floral notes here which made me wonder if there was going to be some fruit sweetness when I eventually tasted it. I say “eventually” because it’s pretty damn good on the nose, let me tell you.
The ever important part of course is the taste of a wine. I tasted this and thought, hang on, blackberries and blackcurrant fruits but in a lighter spectrum if that’s possible. Still rich yet not robust or in your face. The primary fruit is quite obvious (of course) but sitting really nicely on the tongue and inviting the velvety, (slightly bitter) dark chocolate tannins in to add to the charm and sophistication of this wine that seems to linger for a long time. I know I mentioned dark chocolate but on the finish there seems to be a really good, high quality, milk chocolate texture too. It is all class and has time on its side, no doubt.
Region: Coonawarra, SA Price: $60 Source: Gift