Words from a Wine Glass

I have read a bit about Cooks Lot wines but I have never tried them. From all accounts, all of which were positive, Cooks Lot is one of those Orange producers who know exactly what they’re about. Their ethos is simple enough. Pick well, treat the fruit gently, and let the cool‑climate character of the variety speak for itself, with confidence in the vineyards they source fruit from.

Winemaker Duncan Cook seems to embody that same philosophy, favouring regional clarity over complication. He talks often about texture, balance and varietal expression and to be fair, Orange Chardonnay gives him plenty to work with. It’s a style built on freshness, stone fruit purity and that unmistakable cool‑climate line of acidity. Thoughtful, well‑made, and true to the region, this Chardonnay feels like a clear expression of what Duncan Cook wants to say about the variety. And after tasting it, I’m very glad he decided to say it in this way because it is exactly the sort of quality wine that makes me grateful for the opportunity to try it.

Cooks Lot Website

Region: Orange Region, NSW     Price: $35     Source: Sample thanks kindly to Cooks Lot and Define Wine

A little shy to start with, this opens with inviting stone fruit and melon aromas, with a gentle citrus influence. The palate is rich but nicely restrained, carrying vibrant, generous cool‑climate varietal fruit flavours. Stone fruits lead the way, joined by honeydew melon that fills the mid‑palate nicely. Lees work brings a lovely, flowing texture that adds to the wine’s appeal. The oak is present in a supportive way without taking centre stage. The acidity is gentle and balanced, giving the wine good structure as it finishes long, clean and very impressive. A well‑made Orange Chardonnay that delivers depth, poise and genuine drinkability.

Ross Hill is a welcomed new territory for me, but the story behind these wines is worth a moment before diving in. Winemaker Chris Jessop joined the team two years ago, bringing experience from Mudgee, the Barossa, the Limestone Coast, Germany and his native New Zealand. His approach is all about gentle handling, wild ferments, lighter oak and letting Orange’s cool‑climate fruit speak clearly. It also marks Ross Hill’s tenth year as a certified carbon‑neutral winery, a philosophy that runs through both the vineyard and the cellar. The Pinnacle Series is one part of the resultant approach. Modern, thoughtful, and delightfully likeable wines that put fruit purity and texture front and centre.

Chardonnay is a bit of a calling card for cool‑climate regions, and Orange is no exception. High elevation, long ripening and natural acidity give the variety a clarity and precision that suits the more restrained, fruit‑first approach Chris Jessop is aiming for. Ross Hill ‘Pinnacle Series’ Chardonnay is a good place to start. A good example of the variety that shows the site, the minimal intervention and the winemaker’s deft touch in the finished wine.

Live simply. Laugh often. Wine a lot.

Ross Hill Wines Website

Region: Orange Region, NSW     Price: $40     Source: Sample thanks kindly to Ross Hill Wines and Define Wine

It opens with lovely citrus and soft stone‑fruit aromatics, the kind that gives a sense of brightness and varietal expression. The palate offers up peach and melon characters with a ‘fleshy-fruit’ feel too, while some acidity adds freshness and balance. There’s a gentle creaminess, subtle oak influence and enough texture giving the wine a nice mouth-feel and a touch of weight on the palate. It finishes clean, cool and refreshing, inviting you to go back for another sip. A classy, modern cool‑climate Chardonnay and a strong introduction for me to the Pinnacle Series.