2014 Robert Stein Reserve Shiraz

We caught up with a small group of friends recently, all of whom have travelled.  ‘Extensively’ would not be quite right but they get about.  The discussions revolved around where in the world we had all seen (not that we have seen that much of it) but it quickly came back to how much of Australia we haven’t seen.  For my wife and I, it even got down to how much of Tassie (our home state) we are yet to explore.

Our friends know my interest in wine and the subject came up about the wine regions in Australia.  They all assumed I had been to them all.  When I mentioned how I had been to all except any of the regions in New South Wales, they were a bit shocked to say the least. One of the couples had been and, yes, they spoke of the more “well known” region in NSW, but they were very complimentary about Mudgee and surrounds.  Yep, Mudgee.  They said it just seemed more personal and intimate and not so touristy.

I know I’ve mentioned this before but, thanks to Dave Cumming of Define Wine, I now have more of an appreciation of the wineries of the Mudgee area and the wines being produced.  It is indeed on list of places we must visit, and sooner rather than later.

The first thing that captured my attention was the age of this wine.  It doesn’t resemble a five year old wine, certainly not when it comes to the colour and aromas.  It seems so fresh on both counts (apart from a slight earthy aroma on the nose).  There is a sweet fruit (blackcurrant?) note on the nose with a complimentary cedary oak character too.

There’s a lot to like with the flavours even if it is only medium bodied (and I mean this in a good way).  Rich black fruits, a plummy mid palate (I like this in a wine) and a licorice/fennel sort of influence as well as it trails off on a long, smooth finish.

Bearing in mind this is a quality, premium wine designed to be drunk with a bit of age, expect some tannin (quite delicate but showy) and oak at this point in it’s youth.  They are simply part of the structure of the wine and, at this adolescent part of its life, it’s doing very well considering.  To be fair to it and yourself, give it some time in a decanter.  Otherwise, may I suggest you buy some for your cellar.  It will reward patience.

Robert Stein Website

Region: Mudgee, NSW     Price: $50     Source: Sample thanks to Robert Stein Wines and Define Wines

Robert Stein Reserve Shiraz

 

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2015 Gartelmann Wines ‘Jesse’ Shiraz

I caught up with a mate yesterday.  Admittedly, it had been a while mainly due to us both taking different paths in our lives a few years back but we always kept in touch in one way or another.  Anyway, we got talking and naturally wine came up in the conversation and, well, you could’ve knocked me over with a feather!  He said, and I quote, “I don’t like shiraz anymore, it’s just too strong for me.”  Now I accept that tastes change over time  but, as he reeled off the wines he “used to drink”, I had to tell him that things have changed since he last had a shiraz.  As it turns out, the timing of our catch up was perfect.  He and another mate are riding their motorcycles to New South Wales soon for one reason and one reason only; wine.  The Hunter Valley is one of their destinations and now Gartelmann Wines is on their list of places to visit.  I suggested he try all of their wines, but I specifically recommended he try this shiraz.  It’ll bring him back to the ‘shiraz’ fold for sure.

Definitely plums and blackberries on the nose with just a slight minty aroma.  Rich and dense flavours on the palate.  Dark fruits, blackcurrants are the fruits to look out for with something like plum pudding/black forest cake (but nowhere near as sweet) in there too and the oak has been very well played.  Tannins are a touch influential but thankfully the fruit is juicy and bold and this just adds to the nice long finish.  A really good wine!

Gartelmann Wines Website

Region: Mudgee, NSW     Price: $30     Source: Sample thanks to Gartelmann Wines and Define Wine

2015GartJesseMuShiraz2

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2017 Robert Stein Reserve Chardonnay

I read an article recently by the learned Winsor Dobbin about Chardonnay (link here).  It is a very good read.  I have to admit to liking those buttery monsters, at the time, but I moved on.  As much as the article focuses on a different region to where this Chardonnay was produced, I think it is relevant to most Chardonnays made in Australia at the moment.  Approachable wines with the ability to age, nice texture, good fruit intensity, balanced acidity, character and complexity are now more prevalent and, as it turns out, has had a positive impact on Chardonnay sales.  I’ll drink Chardonnay to that!

Goodness me.  The aromas are divine.  Typically stonefruit with a hint of oak and buttered toast but this descriptor does not do it justice.  ‘Typically’ seems so wrong here.  It’s better than that.

Palate pleasure is palpable thanks to rich and generous flavours.   Peaches are present, there’s a lemon/citrusy influence and a smooth creamy textural finish that is persistent and more-ish with the addition of nicely balanced acidity.  Actually, the whole wine is beautifully balanced.

This has seen 50% new French oak.  Yep, that’s serious stuff and it does show, just, which is fine because this tells me the fruit is bloody good.  Actually, it’s like the fruit is holding the oak in its arms cradling it very gently, controlling its influence.

Simply a gorgeous Mudgee Chardonnay.  I wonder how many more trophies it’s going to add to the three it’s already picked up.

Robert Stein Website

Region: Mudgee, NSW     Price: $40     Source: Sample thanks to Robert Stein Wines and Define Wines

Robert Stein Reserve Chardonnay

 

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2018 Gartelmann Wines Benjamin Semillon

Just the smell of this wine brought back terrific memories of certain things I liked about being a kid (a few years ago now).  That memory being lollies or sweets depending on where you grew up.  Who remembers the Sherbet Fountain?  That yellow cylinder of sugar, I mean sherbet, with a tube of licorice in it.  I didn’t bother too much with the licorice.  It was all about the ‘buzz’ you got when you ate the contents.  And what about Wizz Fizz?  That bag of fine powdery sherbet that contained a (way too little) spoon to eat it with.  I’d ditch the spoon and just tip a heap of the sherbet in my mouth.  It’d be gone in 6 seconds and after that I’d be a hyperactive imp for 6 hours!  Ah, the good ole days.

This smells fresh and citrusy with that lemon sherbet aroma I alluded to in the first paragraph.  Similar on the palate, but boy, the flavours are intense and plentiful!  Those citrus characters are the star of the show for sure with great support from slight mineral notes and just a hint of texture.  But it’s the fresh, juicy, vivacious and tight acidity that really gives this wine great structure to develop for some time yet (if you can keep your hands off it).  Delicious Hunter Semillon to a tee.

Gartelmann Wines Website

Region: Hunter Valley, NSW     Price: $27     Source: Sample thanks to Gartelmann Wines and Define Wine

18 Gartelmann BenSem

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2018 Pig in the House Cabernet Sauvignon

I love the name of this wine, Pig in the House.  It conjured up so many thoughts of an introduction for this review before moving onto the tasting notes.  Politicians and Parliament came to mind and I even thought about having a bit of a dig at myself and my occupation.  But alas, in this politically correct world, I decided I’d better do the right thing and not go down that path for fear of upsetting someone, so this is the best I can do for an introduction.

It’s a very deep, yet pretty colour and, stating the obvious I know but, youthful as well.  The aromas are just as primary with red and black fruits dominating.  Tasting and drinking it is all about the sweet-fruit nature of the wine.  Blackcurrants and blackberries are the lead vocals from a wine that just sings “Drink me, don’t cellar me.”  There’s a green, more of a herbal note but nothing that was too obvious.  It was part of the ‘backing vocals’ if you like.  Tannins? There’s none of those to concern yourself with.  It’s all about the fruit for sure.  A very good wine I have to say, which leads me to the question: how do they do it for the price?

Pig In The House Shop

Region: Cowra     Price: $25     Source: Sample thanks to Windowrie Wines and Define Wine

Pig in the House Cabernet

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2017 Castle Rock Estate ‘Diletti’ Chardonnay

1979; 40 years ago.  That was the first time I visited Western Australia, affectionately known as WA.  I won’t mention how old I was, but what I can say is, I wasn’t old enough to drink alcohol.  I can’t remember how long I was there but it was enough time to make me want to go back…and I did…many more times since.  Considering my interest in wine now, it may come as a surprise to know that initially, it wasn’t wine that drew me back there (the wine bit came later).  There’s more to WA than just wine isn’t there?  The Pinnacles, Wave Rock, Monkey Mia, Kalgoorlie, the Pink Lake, Broome and Rottnest Island, just to name a few of the attractions.

From what I remember, there was a time when wine seemed to be produced from only two places.  Margaret River and the Swan Valley.  Not any more.  This wine is from an area 35 kilometres north of Albany called Porongarup.  Bearing in mind Castle Rock was established in 1983, this place has been a very well kept secret…from we Tasmanians anyway.  Hopefully, not anymore.

A little subdued on the nose, the aromas didn’t jump out of the glass.  They seemed to meander out, sort of woke up and thought, “better do something I suppose” and then lingered with stonefruits, citrus characters and a creamy vanilla note (thanks to 25% new oak maybe?).

I loved tasting it.  This was the most impressive part for me.  Delicate but very good fruit; hello peaches, nectarines and (to a lesser extent) pears.  Lots of flavour and texture giving the impression of being rich, but it’s not.  It’s more elegant in style and presentation on the tongue.  Grapefruit acidity seems very gentle and fine on the palate but certainly adds to the character of its make up.  Beautifully balanced, this has an appreciatively long finish too as it seems to rise to a dizzy height and move at that same plateau for a considerable time.  The satisfaction factor is high for this wine.  No question.

Region: Porongurup, WA     Price: $30    Source: Sample courtesy of Castle Rock Estate and Define Wine

Castle-Rock_2017_Diletti_Chardonnay

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2017 Castle Rock Estate ‘A & W’ Reserve Riesling

I know you are used to me starting a review with some sort of story or carry on about something or ‘other, but not this time.  I simply need to cut to the chase with this Riesling.

Magic.  Pure magic.  This is delicious!  The best three tonnes of Riesling fruit from the Estate vineyard has produced a superlative wine.

An intense citrussy nose is a terrific introduction.  The flavours are clean, varietal, spot on and just as intense.  More limey than lemony but both play a significant part in proceedings.  It’s minerally and the acid is pure and lively.  Throw in a deft touch of texture, a mouth-watering and long finish and, as I said before, magic!  A definite ‘Wow’ factor wine for me with a great future.

“That’s all I have to say about that” (Forest Gump 1994)

Castle Rock Estate Website

Region: Porongarup, WA     Price: $35     Source: Samples courtesy of Castle Rock Estate and Define Wine

Castle-Rock_2017_A_W-Reserve-Riesling

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2015 Huntington ‘Bin 25’ Cabernet Sauvignon

There’s plenty of ‘new wave’ things around these days.  At my age, I have trouble keeping up with all the new gadgets and gizmos in the high tech world.  To a certain extent it’s no different in the wine world.  Take a minute or two (but you’ll probably need many more than that) and check out the (relatively) new grape varieties being grown in Australia that eventually find their way into bottles.  I’m not saying this is a bad thing, far from it.  But what I would like to say is, not one of these varieties is ever likely to make the ‘Noble Variety’ list like Cabernet Sauvignon.  When you see Cabernets of this nature and stature being made, maybe they need to be rewarded.  They have the ‘Nobel Lauretate’, how about something along the lines of ‘Noble Wine Laureate’?  Just a thought.

This is the second of the new release ‘Bin’ wines (this was the Bin 18 shiraz) by Tim Stevens who got a bit excited about a couple of barrels of Cabernet and simply could not blend them away.  Thanks again Tim for looking after uspunters.

A lovely deep colour.  Plenty on offer aromatically.  Dark fruits galore and some (cedary?) oak on the nose got things underway.  I have to admit, I was initially a little concerned about the upfront oak but I felt the abundant fruit would sort it out.  Sure enough, it didn’t let me down when I tasted it.

Rich and generous black fruits, mid palate plumpness (don’t know if that’s a word but that describes it for me) and a slight herb character puts its two bobs worth in with the fruit.   It has a smooth, creamy feel on the palate and judicious tannins have a bit to say on the finish.  Yes, it has plenty of everything.  Yes, it offers more of everything.  But everything is perfectly in balance already.  The timing couldn’t be better for the release of this wine what with the cooler weather about to make its presence felt.

Huntington Estate Website

Region: Mudgee, NSW     Price: $32     Source: Sample thanks to Huntington Estate and Define Wine

Huntington-Estate-Bin-25-Cabernet-Sauvignon

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2015 Huntington Estate ‘Bin 18’ Shiraz

I would love to see the look on a winemaker’s face and her/his reaction and excitement at finding a barrel or two of something just that little bit special.  A wine that shows that extra ‘something’ about their vineyard.  I wonder if they would yell out to others to come see and taste, or would they look around furtively to see if anyone is looking then joyously jumping while punching the air before composing themselves and taking another sip just to check it again.

With all due respect to Tim Stevens, Winemaker at Huntington Estate, I don’t reckon he did any sort of jumping when he tasted a sample of this wine while in barrel.  Whichever way he decided to ‘celebrate’ his discovery,  he made the decision that,  “there were a couple of barrels” he “couldn’t blend away and so bottled (them) separately as a ‘Bin’ wine.”  Good decision Tim and thank you.

Looks divine, smells delicious, tastes great!  That about sums up this wine but there is more to it than that.  Allow me to continue.

The deep and dense colour from the core to the cusp got my attention immediately.  Swirl it about and that density is evident even on the nose, although a better word is probably richness.  Black fruits and plums are the obvious aromas for me and there’s some oak on show here too.  On the palate the oak is a little bit more obvious, but the lush blackberry and plum fruit are up to the challenge while a spicy element adds a nice touch.  To finish things off, it’s smooth and long with a creamy sort of mouthfeel. The tannins aren’t shy either.  This just shows how it portends well for it’s future development.

These “…small parcels of wine that offer an interesting difference to the core range of wines” could well prove to be a popular player in the Huntington Estate range.  I wouldn’t be at all surprised.

Huntington Estate Website

Region: Mudgee, NSW     Price: $32     Source: Sample thanks to Huntington Estate and Define Wine

Huntington-Estate-Bin-18-Shiraz-2015

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2018 De Iuliis Hunter Valley Semillon

It’s interesting the reactions I get when I mention to people how I have always been a fan of Semillon.  Well, maybe not always.  More so since the first time I tried it which would be over twenty years ago.  Most of the wines I tried those many years ago were young, newly released versions and I can remember being captivated by the variety.  That enthusiasm has not waned (although I do love one with some age on it as well).  I know I’ve mentioned this before but, it is such a shame it tends not to be appreciated at the level it should be.

This De Iuliis Semillon looks and smells bright, clean, fresh and inviting.  A lovely citrusy nose dominated by lemons and limes that move seamlessly onto the palate.  Here you’ll find those same citrus fruits again with a slight minerally note.  There’s plenty of bang for your buck when it comes to flavour on the palate, that’s for sure, and then in comes a terrific line of acidity that gives it great persistence.  A bargain, gold medal winning (2018 Royal Melbourne Wine Show), Hunter Valley Semillon that rates highly on the pleasure scale.

De Iuliis Website

Region: Hunter Valley, NSW    Price: $20     Source: Generous gift thanks to Mike De Iuliis

2018 De Iuliis Estate Semillon

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