Words from a Wine Glass

I read an article recently by the learned Winsor Dobbin about Chardonnay (link here).  It is a very good read.  I have to admit to liking those buttery monsters, at the time, but I moved on.  As much as the article focuses on a different region to where this Chardonnay was produced, I think it is relevant to most Chardonnays made in Australia at the moment.  Approachable wines with the ability to age, nice texture, good fruit intensity, balanced acidity, character and complexity are now more prevalent and, as it turns out, has had a positive impact on Chardonnay sales.  I’ll drink Chardonnay to that!

Goodness me.  The aromas are divine.  Typically stonefruit with a hint of oak and buttered toast but this descriptor does not do it justice.  ‘Typically’ seems so wrong here.  It’s better than that.

Palate pleasure is palpable thanks to rich and generous flavours.   Peaches are present, there’s a lemon/citrusy influence and a smooth creamy textural finish that is persistent and more-ish with the addition of nicely balanced acidity.  Actually, the whole wine is beautifully balanced.

This has seen 50% new French oak.  Yep, that’s serious stuff and it does show, just, which is fine because this tells me the fruit is bloody good.  Actually, it’s like the fruit is holding the oak in its arms cradling it very gently, controlling its influence.

Simply a gorgeous Mudgee Chardonnay.  I wonder how many more trophies it’s going to add to the three it’s already picked up.

Robert Stein Website

Region: Mudgee, NSW     Price: $40     Source: Sample thanks to Robert Stein Wines and Define Wines

1979; 40 years ago.  That was the first time I visited Western Australia, affectionately known as WA.  I won’t mention how old I was, but what I can say is, I wasn’t old enough to drink alcohol.  I can’t remember how long I was there but it was enough time to make me want to go back…and I did…many more times since.  Considering my interest in wine now, it may come as a surprise to know that initially, it wasn’t wine that drew me back there (the wine bit came later).  There’s more to WA than just wine isn’t there?  The Pinnacles, Wave Rock, Monkey Mia, Kalgoorlie, the Pink Lake, Broome and Rottnest Island, just to name a few of the attractions.

From what I remember, there was a time when wine seemed to be produced from only two places.  Margaret River and the Swan Valley.  Not any more.  This wine is from an area 35 kilometres north of Albany called Porongarup.  Bearing in mind Castle Rock was established in 1983, this place has been a very well kept secret…from we Tasmanians anyway.  Hopefully, not anymore.

A little subdued on the nose, the aromas didn’t jump out of the glass.  They seemed to meander out, sort of woke up and thought, “better do something I suppose” and then lingered with stonefruits, citrus characters and a creamy vanilla note (thanks to 25% new oak maybe?).

I loved tasting it.  This was the most impressive part for me.  Delicate but very good fruit; hello peaches, nectarines and (to a lesser extent) pears.  Lots of flavour and texture giving the impression of being rich, but it’s not.  It’s more elegant in style and presentation on the tongue.  Grapefruit acidity seems very gentle and fine on the palate but certainly adds to the character of its make up.  Beautifully balanced, this has an appreciatively long finish too as it seems to rise to a dizzy height and move at that same plateau for a considerable time.  The satisfaction factor is high for this wine.  No question.

Region: Porongurup, WA     Price: $30    Source: Sample courtesy of Castle Rock Estate and Define Wine