Words from a Wine Glass

Mataro is so Spanish isn’t it?  I can picture a Spaniard doing the dance of the matador, dressed in his flamboyant costume, saying the word while extending the ‘a’ and rolling the ‘r’, followed by stomping his feet, then placing one hand on his hip, the other raised above his head as he points his nose to the air.  Almost like a challenge, sort of like a declaration, but more like a moment of pride in his native country where the grape, allegedly, has its origins (that’s a debate I’m not getting into).

I can’t say I have tried a traditional Spanish Monastrell (the preferred name for Mataro these days) but I reckon the locals would be enamoured with the way the Mataro has been made on this occasion.

A pretty purply, crimsony colour in the glass sets things off in a traditional sense when it comes to the variety.  Tasting it revealed spicy and slightly peppery characters along with plenty of fruit flavours that liven the palate.  Blueberries, juicy plump plums and dark cherries are all in there contributing as it peters off very pleasantly with lovely smooth tannins.  It’s like Michael Papps has put the fruit, the spices, the tannins and the magic of this wine through a wine weaving loon and produced a mataro that pleases the olfactory senses with ease.

Yelland & Papps Website

Region: Barossa Valley, SA     Price: $45     Source: Sample thanks to Yelland & Papps

This was quite, let’s say, interesting for me.  I cannot remember ever reviewing a fortified wine…ever!  I mean, I’ve tried plenty of them and I am, without a doubt, a fan so to put one in a glass for me to try, there’s definitely going to be a positive attitude towards it.  This however required a different approach (if you like) because it involved reviewing it.  I was sort of compelled to look at it more deeply and, fair enough too.  I rather liked the challenge and welcomed it.  Ultimately, on a good note, it gave me more of an appreciation of this style of wine rather than just utter the words, “I like this” or just sit back and enjoy it.

To start with, I felt sorry for this wine because I’ve no doubt it confuses those who don’t know how to treat it.  Fortified is not a word that rings true to many thanks to a European country that ‘patented’ the words ‘Port’ and ‘Tawny’, which are more in keeping with the knowledge of the masses (no offence intended).  It looks just like any other red wine in the glass, yet it can’t, and doesn’t, say, “I’m not your usual red wine so don’t have me with steak” kinda thing.  This only becomes obvious when you smell it and try it.  Speaking of which, let me tell you what I thought of it.

If you do buy a bottle, have a look at the colour from the top of the glass.  It is deep and dense in the middle and peters out to a pretty crimson on the edges.  It smells fresh and fruity and sweet thanks to some blackberry and blackcurrant aromas.  The palate is quite rich where those same fruits are dominant and complimented by some slight licorice notes.  As I tasted it over three days, the black fruit characters hung around with the addition of fulsome mid palate plums as the licorice character faded. You can’t escape the sweetness but it is in balance with the fruit, and gee it lingers beautifully on the palate.

People may not agree with me on this but, as much as it will stand the test of (some) time, drink up I say.  It is most enjoyable now too.

Huntington Estate Website

Region: Mudgee, NSW     Price: $25     Source: Sample thanks to Huntington Estate and Define Wine