“There is not a sprig of grass that shoots uninteresting to me,” said Thomas Jefferson
That quote has been sitting with me lately, and it feels especially fitting as I explore the wines of Renzaglia for the first time. There’s something deeply satisfying about discovering a new producer, one that doesn’t shout, but shoots its hand up from within the crowded wine world and quietly invites you to lean in and listen.
Winemaker Sam Renzaglia said, “In the winery, our approach is guided by the essence of each variety. We aim to capture their inherent character without interference, which means no added yeast, tannin, sugar, or acid. We’re using very little new oak and instead working with an array of fermentation and maturation vessels: concrete, earthenware amphorae, stainless steel, foudre, puncheons, barriques and even glass. It’s an elaborate toolbox designed to nurture wines that are engaging, honest, and true to their origins.”
After tasting each of these three whites, I couldn’t help but think how true this is. The Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay offered something distinct, something worth noticing. From the citrus-driven charm of the Riesling to the textural intrigue of the Pinot Gris, and the confident elegance of the Chardonnay, these wines showed themselves individually and stylistically true to the varieties. And like Jefferson’s sprig of grass, none of them were uninteresting. I’ll be keeping an eye on Renzaglia.
Region: Central Ranges, Orange Region, NSW Price: $37 each Source: Sample thanks kindly to Renzaglia Wines and Define Wine
2024 Riesling (Patina Vineyard)
Yes, it’s so varietal on the nose, but there’s an elevated attractiveness about it that says, “Come on in. We have much to tell you about.” Everything is delightfully citrus-driven and refreshingly so, it’s hard not to keep checking it out. Limes and lemons share the load on the taste buds, but there’s an unexpected textural note that adds an intriguing character. Further, and dare I say, repeated tasting revealed a lovely drying yet moreish acidity on the crisp and refreshing finish. It’s not only long, but it invites another tasting. A delightful Riesling indeed.
2024 Pinot Gris (ChaLou Vineyard)
What a variety this is. It’s been sitting in that curious gap between Sav Blanc drinkers and other white varieties that have long been given more attention, but Pinot Gris is fast becoming a genuine alternative to Sav Blanc. This one makes a bold case. It’s clearly aimed at the Gen Z wine drinker, and I’ve no doubt it’ll catch their eye. I’m so pleased the winemaking crew gave it the colour it deserves, thanks to time spent on its mother-grape skins, bringing texture, a gentle spiciness, and those typically pear-driven characters (and I mean that in a good way). It’s a very different take on the variety that will divide opinion but there’s also a ‘feel good’ nature to this wine that purveys confidence and I admire that.
2024 Chardonnay (Patina Vineyard)
I’m a fan of Chardonnay, and I’m so pleased it continues to be a variety that producers, especially small ones like this, are proud to release in quality form to the wine world. Just a heads up: the aromas draw you in straight away, and there’s no going back. Aromas and palate flavours are very much in sync. All the stone fruit characters play a part, with pear flesh, creamy texture, and a ginger spice-like note (perhaps?) adding intrigue. It sits so lightfully yet definitively on the palate. Yes, it’s varietal, but there’s an intriguing nature about it too, something that pulls you in to find out more. My pick of the three whites.
Words from a Wine Glass 